Take the necessary time to be trained and prepared professionally prior to attempting to go out on your own. Black Diamond named it the “Air Traffic Controller” as a tongue-in-cheek reference to falling climbers. Make sure there are at least two anchors (bolt hangers), preferably three. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) is recommended for most rappelling. The other strand of the rope should be over the friction mode on the ATC and lead down. It is a practical, sleek device and easy to set up. Usually, aluminium alloy is used for its construction and it has a shape of the number 8 with one small and one large end. The choice of rope is hugely important for all rock-climbing activities. This site is owned and operated by In Our Lovely Desert, LLC. The most versatile ATC is the ATC Guide (or Petzl Reverso), which includes additional loops that allow you to tie off mid-rappel or connect to the wall for a direct belay. Clip the carabiner into the belay loop on your harness, and make sure it locks. If you plan on getting into canyoneering or rappelling, then you probably want an ATC or 8-style device. Your essential climbing gear is also your rappel gear, with a few additions. We are compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. It is best to thread the rappel ropes through a rappel device, like an ATC or figure-8 descender. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies at no cost to you.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'therockulus_com-banner-1','ezslot_5',130,'0','0'])); Husband, Father, Wild Animal. My wife Katherine and I write articles on this site to share the knowledge we’ve acquired and practiced over the years. At this point one strand of rope should go up to the anchor. Not only is it affordable but it has been crafted to withstand significant amounts of stress wh… Your left hand will be the guide hand and will hold on the other end of the rope that has been secured to the anchors. Step over the rope so it runs by your right side (reverse if left-handed). For now, I dream about it during the week and go hard on the weekends. Not only is it affordable but it has been crafted to withstand significant amounts of stress while supporting the load during a rappel. Scenario: you're rappelling down a cliff when you realize your rope doesn't reach the bottom, so you'll have to ascend back up. Once completed with the rappel the final step will be to untie the stopper knots on the rope. You cannot use this when rappelling both strands of the rope, but it works great for climbing. Even though the ease of setup for a rappel is simple it must be done correctly to avoid any gear malfunction or potential injury. It’s designed in such a manner to improve the safety of the climber during belaying. Turn your head downward to check for any upcoming obstacles to overcome in the descent. It can be dually used for belaying a rock climbing partner down or used to rappel solo. A second carabiner can increase the friction by as much as 20%. If the rope points upwards when coming out of the ATC, it will twist the belay loop, which weakens the strength of the harness. With your right hand, grab the loose rope leading to the ground. While Black Diamond created the original ATC, and maintains the ownership of the name, everyone pretty much refers to any tubular belay device as an ATC. Double check to make sure the carabiner goes through the loop created by the rope AND the wire keeper loop on the ATC. “Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel, Machined windows through device for weight savings, Guide mode works with one or two climbers ascending or descending, Auto-block release hole enlarged to accept a small carabiner, Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught between ropes”. To break as you descend lower the right hand below the waist while holding the rope, it will stop the rope from running through the ATC. For more instruction and information on the art of rappelling. Never raise the right hand straight up entirely as the rope will begin to run freely and place you in grave danger of free falling. The knot is the best back-up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well: It locks under load and, unlike all other friction knots, it releases while still under load. I live in Idaho with my wife and three kids and the great outdoors is our playground. There are two distinct versions available, namely the original device and the ATC-XP. It is amazing what a second pair of eyes can see. Black Diamond originally developed the ATC back in 1993. As you descend shout “On Rappel!” This advises everyone that a rappel will begin. Take a locking carabiner and clip it into both loops. When controlling the speed of descent the Black Diamond ATC provides excellent control allowing the user to increase or decrease speed.
2020 rappelling with atc